Locksmiths, dealers and owner's manuals use a lot of shorthand for keys and locks. These are the terms you are most likely to hear when you call about a motorcycle key, in plain language.
- All keys lost
- The situation where no working key exists for the bike. A new key has to be made from the lock itself or from a key code, and on chip-key bikes it also has to be programmed. On some systems the maker's manual calls for replacement parts instead.
- Antenna ring
- The coil around the ignition switch on a bike with an immobilizer. It powers the chip in the key and reads its code when the ignition is switched on.
- Barrel key
- A key with a round, tube-shaped end and cuts around the rim, also called a tubular key. Many Harley-Davidson ignition and fork locks use one.
- Bitting
- The pattern of cuts along a key blade. The bitting is what matches one key to one lock.
- Blade
- The long metal part of a key that goes into the lock and carries the cuts.
- Blank
- An uncut key. Each make and model family uses particular blanks, defined by the shape and grooves of the blade.
- Bow
- The head of the key, the part you hold. On a chip key the transponder sits inside the bow.
- Code card
- A card supplied with some bikes, some Ducatis and MV Agustas for example, that carries a code used when keys are programmed. It should be kept at home, not on the bike.
- Cut to code
- Cutting a key from its key code on a code machine instead of copying an existing key. The result is a factory-fresh cut, without the wear of the old key.
- Cylinder
- The part of a lock that the key goes into and turns. An ignition switch, a seat lock and a fuel cap each contain one.
- Duplicate
- A copy made from a key you already have. It is the simplest and least costly key job.
- Fob
- A remote or proximity key with a battery. On a keyless bike the fob only has to be near the bike for the ignition to work.
- Fork lock
- Another name for the steering lock. On some bikes, including many Harley-Davidsons, it is a separate lock on the steering head and not part of the ignition switch.
- Ignition switch
- The key-operated switch that turns the bike's electrical system on and off. It has a mechanical side, the lock cylinder, and an electrical side, the contacts.
- Immobilizer
- An anti-theft system that only lets the engine start when it recognizes the chip in a programmed key or fob. Not every bike has one: many Japanese bikes sold in the US use a plain key.
- Key code
- A short code of letters and numbers that defines the cuts of a key. It may be on a tag supplied with the bike, stamped on the original key or stamped on a lock.
- Key tag
- The small metal or plastic tag supplied with new keys that carries the key code or key number. Many owners lose it; keep it with the bike's paperwork.
- Keyed alike
- Two or more locks set up to work with the same key, for example an ignition, a seat lock and a set of saddlebags.
- Keyless ignition
- A system where the bike is switched on with a button or knob as long as the fob is close by. Makers use their own names for it, such as Keyless Ride, Hands Free, Smart Key and KIPASS.
- Master key
- On some immobilizer systems, a special key used to register other keys. Immobilizer-equipped Yamahas, mostly export-market bikes, have a red one, larger KTMs have an orange programming key, and some older Ducatis have a red one. It is meant to be stored safely, not ridden with.
- Mechanical key
- A plain metal key with no chip. The cuts alone operate the lock.
- PIN
- A personal code, set by the owner or supplied with the bike, that some keyless and fob systems accept when the fob is missing or its battery is flat. Your owner's manual explains whether your bike has one.
- Programming
- Teaching the bike's immobilizer to accept a new chip key or fob. On a chip-key bike, cutting makes the key turn and programming makes the bike start. A plain-key bike needs no programming.
- Proof of ownership
- Photo ID together with the registration or title in the same name. It is checked before a key is made for any bike.
- Rekey
- Changing the inside of a lock so that it works with a new key and the old key no longer fits. It is used after keys are stolen, or to make several locks work with one key.
- Shoulder
- The stop near the head of many keys that sets how far the blade goes into the lock.
- Steering lock
- A lock that holds the handlebars turned to one side so the bike cannot be wheeled away in a straight line. On most bikes it is a position on the ignition switch.
- Transponder
- The small chip inside the head of a chip key. It has no battery; the bike powers it and reads its code each time the ignition is switched on.
- VIN
- The vehicle identification number, 17 characters on modern bikes, stamped on the frame and printed on the registration and title. Dealers use it to look up key information for some makes.
- Wafer
- One of the small flat plates inside most motorcycle lock cylinders that the key cuts line up. Worn wafers are a common cause of a key that sticks or needs wiggling.
Keep reading
- Motorcycle Immobilizers Explained: HISS, KIPASS and MoreA motorcycle immobilizer is an anti-theft system that only lets the engine start when it recognizes a coded chip in the key or a paired fob.
- How to Find Your Motorcycle Key CodeA motorcycle key code is a short number or letter-number code that tells a locksmith or dealer how to cut a key for your locks.
- Lost Your Only Motorcycle Key? What to Do NextIf you lost the only key to your motorcycle, a new one can almost always be made, but the route depends on whether your bike uses a plain metal key, a chipped transponder key, or a keyless fob.
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